Sailing Bear and Seal

Hiva Oa, Marquesas
9º48’11″S / 139º2’23″W

We picked up the truck and headed off to our first hike to see a tiki, a large Polynesian carving, out of Stone or Wood, of a human figure. Tiki is also the Maori word for the First Man. The first tiki we sought was Tiki Souriant, or “Laughing Tiki” in English.

The walk down to the Laughing Tiki was just over a quarter of a mile and look just over ten minutes. We missed the turn at the white sign arrow because someone was sitting on it. Fortunately he called out to us and pointed behind him. This tiki is comical with eye glasses. The smiling tiki of Utukua can be found in the valley of Punaei. As its name suggests, this tiki is unusual in that its face has an expression, and a happy one at that! It is a representation of the Queen of Utukua.

After the smiling tiki, we hopped back in the truck and headed across Hiva Oa to Ma’ae Lipona or “Grand Tiki”, the best preserved archaeological site in the Marquesas. Ma’ae means a ceremonial site (including human sacrifices). It has eighteen giant ancient tiki statues, including Tiki Takai’i at 2.67m/9ft (which is the largest stone statue after the moai of the Easter Islands indicating an ancient link between these civilizations). The tikis have various shapes and conditions – one is a horizontal tiki thought of a woman giving birth, another is a warrior. 

Driving through the landscape of the island was stunningly beautiful.

Our first stop of the morning, even before the laughing tiki was to the supermarket. We picked up fresh baguettes, salami and brie (a very delicious creamy cheese). After Le Grande Tiki we found a small beach park, sat, and enjoyed lunch.

The stop with the most tikis was actually back in Atouna. Atuona, located on Atuona Bay on the southern side of Hiva Oa island, French Polynesia, is the administrative centre of the commune (municipality) of Hiva-Oa. Atuona was the capital of all the Marquesas Islands but it has been replaced by Taioha’e (on Nuku Hiva).